Decals for 1/18th 1/24th 1/32nd 1/64th & HO 1/72nd T-Jet. Scale model diecast and slot cars scale decals

This page is dedicated to give you tips on applying your decals for great looking results.
And for those of you "pro's" out there, c'mon, take the time to read. Who knows? You might learn some little thing that makes your creation just a little bit nicer!

For TIRE DECAL instructions, Click Here

REMEMBER! Many of the decals that I offer have a white border around the decal. LOOK CAREFULLY when you're trimming, so you don't trim in to the white border.

To prepare your decals for application, the first thig to do is trim for a clean line around the decal. For some decals, it's better to fo a rough trim first, and then a finish trim to avoid bending the decal during the trimming process. To further smooth out the trim lines once the trimming is complete, use a piece of 400 grit sandpaper to sand the edges of the decal until they're smooth and blended in as desired. Now that your decal is ready to apply, mix a solution of water with a few drops of liquid dish soap. Small water slide decals can be applied using only the water solution to slide them off their backing and applied to their desired location. For large decals however, wet the area the decal is to be applied to. Then once your decal is trimmed and ready to apply, soak it in the water solution. *IMPORTANT* Soak your decal only long enough to fully wet the decal, and then remove. If you drop your decal into the solution to let it soak, it will soften the decal film which could cause it to tear or fall apart! Once removed from the solution your decal will begin to release from the paper backing within a few seconds.

For larger decals, hold the decal flush to the area where it's to be applied, and then slide the decal from the paper backing directly onto the desired area. This is important to avoid your decal from folding on you.

After your decal is applied, use a toothpick for positioning, and then a cotton suab to squeeze the water out when you have your decal where you want it. A tip here...when squeezing the water out, hold an edge of the decal with your finger tip to keep your decal from moving while wiping it with the cotton suab. After allowing the decal to sit a few minutes, take the edge of a thick paper stock to tuck your decal into door or hood crevices. This is also the time to work the decal around any corners as it is going through the drying process, using your cotton suab to work any wrinkles out. Dang that's a lot of info just to lay a decal huh?

**Using the Proper Clearcoat** Ok, with the above said, now on to getting your decals ready to clearcoat. I first must mention that whatever decal you're applying or whatever method you use to apply your decals, selecting the proper clearcoat to be sprayed over the top of your decal is very important. Use a clearcoat that's formulated for scale models, or professional automotive clearcoats ONLY! The spray can clears found in hardware, automotive stores etc, have a hotter thinner,and will penetrate and wrinkle your decals, ruining your job that you spent so much time on.

With ANY clearcoat, wrinkling occurs when the solvents of the clearcoat penetrate underneath the decal to make it wrinkle. This happens when the first couple coats of clear are sprayed on too wet. Those first couple coats act as a barrier, so additional coats will not penetrate deep enough to cause any problems. So keep this in mind while you're spraying to avoid this. You can use either laquer or enamel spray can clearcoat such as those offered by Testor's, Model Master's, etc. Professional automotive clears that are used in automotive body shops will work too. With either one, spray a light tack coat on first, and let it dry thoroughly before applying the next coat. The first coat should NOT be a full wet coat. With each coat sprayed, you can lay it on wetter. BE VERY CAREFUL when using enamel clear! Enamel dries slower than laquer, which gives it more time to soak under the decals, which you don't want.

Once you've gotten this far with your project, Here's a tip if you're wanting that smooth as glass wet look finish regardless of what you're using. First apply a minimum of 3 coats of clear on your model, and let it dry overnight. Waiting a couple 3 days is even better. Once dry, you'll notice that there's a light raised line around your decals, plus the "orange peel" from your spray job, Get a small bowl, and mix some warm water with a couple drops of liquid dish soap. Depending on your project, use 400 to 600 grit sand paper to wetsand your clear finish smooth. Be very careful at this stage, making sure you don't sand through your clearcoat! It's better to play it safe here. Once sanded and cleaned up again, use a tack rag to wipe your model down good. Now you're ready to spray your finish coats of clear. If you get a nice flow after applying what you want, just let 'er dry and you're all done! If you do want a smoother finish once all the clearcoat is complete, then it's time to get the wetsand paper out again. Use anywhere from 1200 grit to 1500 grit wetsand paper, and sand the surface to your desired finish. Then get your buffing and polishing compounds out, and buff your model to a mirror shine! There is of course many products you can use for buffing and polishing, one that I find that works very well, is Novus plastic polish formulated for fine scratch removal. The stuff works great for me!

With the above said, and hopefully done to your expectations, you're on your way to having a great looking model being built not just as a model, but also as your statement of creativity!

If you're using a decal that need to be trimmed to the front wheel opening, here's some more tips for you. first trim a radius in your decal that's slightly smaller than the wheel opening. Next, apply your decal, allowing a little overlap to roll in to the wheel opening after it's applied. *Important* Do not attempt to roll the edge of your decal into your wheel opening until after the decal has thuroughly dried and set. At that point, lick the end of your finger and wetten the backside of the decal to be rolled into the wheel opening. Then roll your decal into place to finish the job. I find that a little spit is stickier than water!

The following instructions below are for trimming a decal that you want to fit on a vehicle with protruding fenders such as the 40 Ford coupe shown in the pictures.

The first step is to take a piece of masking tape, and cut a radius in it that's slightly smaller than the fender line itself.

Next, place the tape against the car body, and with a toothpick or similar tool, tuck the tape in to the fender crevice to trace the fender line on to the tape.

After removing the tape from the car body, place it securely on a piece of paper, aligning the bottom edge of the tape to the bottom edge of the paper. Trace the imprint on the tape with a pencil or pen, to better visualize the imprint to be cut, then cut along the traced line. You now have your pattern for trimming your decal. Use one side of the paper and tape for 1 side of the car, and the other side of the paper for the other side of the car.

Next, take your decal and align it with your stencil in the desired location. Note that I took the rake of the decal into consideration as indicated by the arrow in the picture. It should not be flush along the bottom edge of your stencil, but rather at the angle of the bottom edge of the decal in how it should look when it's applied to the car.

Once your decal is positioned with your stencil, trace the cut line on the back side of the decal, and trim your decal to the line. Your decal is now ready to apply.

Once applied and set using a cotton swab to lay the decal flush to the car body, take the edge of a heavy paper stock to tuck your decal into any door and hood seams. From this point, you can finish the body of your car and apply a laquer clearcoat over the top.

Now you're looking good!

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